Kitchen Cabinet Painting Cost in Toronto
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Interior Painting

Kitchen Cabinet Painting Cost Toronto: What the Primer Actually Decides

Toronto kitchen cabinet painting runs $1,800-$8,000+ CAD plus HST. The price is 60-80% prep, and the primer choice (STIX, BIN, or Fresh Start) decides whether the paint lasts ten years or peels in ten months.

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Kitchen Cabinet Painting Cost Toronto 2026
Written byChad Caglak , Co-Owner 21 min read Updated Sep 24, 2026

How much does kitchen cabinet painting cost in Toronto in 2026?

Toronto kitchen cabinet painting runs $1,800 to $8,000+ CAD plus HST. Most 10x10 kitchens land between $2,500 and $4,500. Painting saves 70-85% against replacement, which the National Kitchen and Bath Association tracks at $26,000-$45,000 for a comparable mid-range kitchen (NKBA, 2025). The part no one prints on the quote: 60-80% of that price is prep, not paint.

Key Takeaways

  • Toronto cabinet painting: $1,800-$2,800 small, $2,500-$4,500 medium 10x10, $4,500-$8,000+ large, all CAD plus HST
  • Primer decides longevity. INSL-X STIX for laminate, melamine, thermofoil and glossy. Zinsser BIN for stained wood and tannin-prone oak. BM Fresh Start for bare wood and MDF
  • Default topcoat is Benjamin Moore Advance (roughly $100 to $125 CAD/gal in 2026, confirm with your local BM dealer), an alkyd hybrid that levels like oil and cleans like latex
  • Spraying adds 20-30% to labour and pushes lifespan to 10-15 years
  • Two coats minimum, three coats common for deep colours and pure whites
  • Deep-base saturated colours (navy, forest green, charcoal) add $5-7 CAD per gallon and usually take a third coat
  • Cabinet painting returns 150-300% on resale against 50-75% for replacement (Remodeling Magazine Cost vs. Value, 2024)

CityPlace condo galleys, 1960s honey-oak in North York, custom MDF builds in Rosedale, the odd rental turnover off Queen West: a few hundred Toronto kitchens over 20 years, most as part of a full interior painting Toronto job. The price almost always lands inside a predictable band tied to door count. What decides whether the job still looks good in year ten is something most homeowners never hear about on a sales call: which primer goes on first.

Cabinets are not walls. A wall gets touched maybe once a week. Cabinet doors get grabbed, splashed, steamed and wiped every single day. Whatever sits under the topcoat has to bond like concrete or the film lifts. Here's the real Toronto pricing, the primer call, and the paint I'd actually spec on your kitchen.

If you already know you want it done rather than priced, our kitchen cabinet painting service in Toronto covers the workshop spray process, warranty, and booking. If cabinets are one line item in a bigger project, the cost to paint a house in Toronto sets the wider budget.

What does cabinet painting actually cost by kitchen size in Toronto?

Three pricing tiers cover about 90% of Toronto kitchens. All prices are CAD plus HST, drawn from 2025-2026 projects we ran across the GTA. The variable that moves the number inside each tier is door count. Square footage and cabinet material barely register.

One note on how to compare quotes: cabinet refinishing is most often framed by the linear foot of cabinetry (the run of boxes along the wall), which is the convention most Toronto buyers see when they price-shop. Door and drawer count still drives the real labour, but if a quote lists a per-linear-foot rate, that's the standard yardstick to compare one painter against another. As a rough 2026 benchmark, Toronto cabinet-painting rates run about $150 to $250 per door, $100 to $150 per drawer front, and $80 to $150 per linear foot with doors included (HomeGuide, Cost to Paint Kitchen Cabinets, 2026, with Toronto trade sources).

Toronto Cabinet Painting Cost by Kitchen Size (CAD, +HST)Small condo galley 10-15 doors $1,800-$2,800; medium 10x10 16-22 doors $2,500-$4,500; large with island 26+ doors $4,500-$8,000+. Source: HomePaintersPro Toronto project data 2025-2026.Toronto Cabinet Painting Cost by Kitchen SizeCAD plus HST, real 2026 project pricing$0$2k$4k$6k$8kSmall condo (10-15 doors)$1,800-$2,800Medium 10x10 (16-22)$2,500-$4,500Large + island (26+)$4,500-$8,000+Source: HomePaintersPro Toronto project data, 2025-2026. All prices CAD before HST.

Toronto kitchen cabinet painting costs $1,800-$2,800 CAD for a small condo galley, $2,500-$4,500 for a typical 10x10 kitchen, and $4,500-$8,000+ for large kitchens with islands, all before HST. Pricing includes degreasing, sanding, bonding primer, two to three coats of cabinet-grade paint, and reinstallation. Door count is the single biggest variable, not cabinet material (Chad Caglak, HomePaintersPro Toronto, 2026).

What's actually in the price

Every honest quote covers the same scope. If a competitor's number lands $1,000 under ours, ask them which of these steps they're skipping.

  • Removal, photo-documentation and labelling of every door, drawer front and hinge
  • TSP or commercial degreaser wash on every surface (grease is the number one adhesion killer)
  • Sanding to 220 grit for mechanical adhesion
  • Bonding primer matched to your substrate (STIX, BIN or Fresh Start)
  • Two to three coats of cabinet-grade paint, BM Advance by default
  • Doors and drawer fronts sprayed in a controlled workshop
  • Boxes brushed and rolled on-site, or sprayed in place with full masking
  • Reinstallation, hinge adjustment, hardware reattachment
  • Final walkthrough and warranty paperwork

condo kitchen specifics

What pushes the price up

The base quote covers a straight refresh. These extras show up as separate line items:

  • New hardware (pulls, knobs): $150-$600 depending on quality and count
  • Crown moulding added: $300-$600 installed and painted
  • Interior shelf painting: $30-$50 per shelf
  • Two-tone island in an accent colour: $800-$1,500 added
  • Thermofoil repair or replacement: $300-$1,200 per door
  • Stripping heavy varnish or lacquer: $200-$400
  • Grain-filling open-pore oak for a smooth finish: adds meaningfully to oak jobs
  • Off-site spray booth premium: usually already included, but ask explicitly

Worth flagging the oak line on its own. Red and white oak have deep, open grain, and if a homeowner wants a glassy, contemporary finish instead of a textured one, that grain has to be filled and sanded before primer. It's a multi-step pass (grain filler, cure, sand, repeat on stubborn pores), and it adds meaningfully to the labour on any oak cabinet job. Painted oak with the grain left open reads as wood that's been painted; grain-filled oak reads as new cabinetry. Both are valid, but the smooth look costs more.

HST adds 13% on top. A $4,000 base quote bills out at $4,520.

Why is cabinet painting 60-80% prep and only 20-40% paint?

Cabinet painting is the most prep-heavy job in residential paint. Actual spraying on a medium kitchen is maybe 4-6 hours. The other 25-40 hours? Degrease, sand, mask, prime, dry, sand again. Prep is the overwhelming majority of the labour on cabinet refinishing, and that is why DIY cabinet jobs fail so often. People skip straight to the fun part.

Where the days actually go: On a typical 10x10 kitchen, Day 1 is just degreasing and labelling. Day 2, sanding and masking the boxes. Day 3, primer. Days 4 and 5, topcoats with dry time between. Day 6, reinstall. Out of six working days, one day is paint. The other five are prep, primer and cure. Cut any of those in half and the job fails inside a year.

The grease problem nobody mentions

Kitchen cabinets pick up an invisible film of aerosolized cooking oil over the years. You can't see it. You can just barely feel it when you drag a clean fingertip along the top edge of a door. That film is the biggest adhesion failure point on the whole job. Primer rolled straight over greased cabinets peels in sheets within months. Doesn't matter which primer.

Real prep is a TSP wash, rinse, dry, degreaser wipe, second rinse, then sand. On hard-cooking kitchens (daily wok, lots of frying), I'll run that sequence twice. Skipping the degrease is the number one cause of cabinet paint failure in Toronto, ahead of wrong primer and ahead of cheap paint.

wall prep deep-dive

Which primer does your cabinet actually need? (STIX vs BIN vs Fresh Start)

This is the spec that decides the whole job, and most homeowners never hear it discussed on a quote call. Wrong primer turns a $4,000 cabinet job into a $4,000 redo inside twelve months. Each of these three primers solves a specific substrate problem. They are not interchangeable. Per the manufacturer technical data sheets, here's how each one fits. If you are still choosing the topcoat as well, we put Advance, Command, Emerald Urethane, and Cabinet Coat side by side on cure time.

A thermofoil failure I still think about: a Liberty Village condo, 2019. Previous painter used a latex bonding primer on the doors, sprayed a nice Cloud White, billed about $2,800. Looked great at handover. Eight months later the homeowner called me because the paint was peeling off the doors in strips you could lift with a fingernail. Latex bonding primer on thermofoil is a coin flip and that coin had landed badly. We stripped, re-primed everything with STIX, repainted in Advance. That second job cost more than the first. STIX would have cost an extra forty dollars in primer.

Cabinet Primer Selection Matrix by SubstrateINSL-X STIX for laminate, melamine, thermofoil, and glossy surfaces. Zinsser BIN for oak, stained wood, water/smoke damage, and tannin-prone species. BM Fresh Start for bare maple, poplar, MDF, and previously latex-painted cabinets.Cabinet Primer Selection MatrixMatch the primer to the substrate, not the brand on the canINSL-X STIXUrethane-acrylic bondingZinsser BINShellac-based stain blockerBM Fresh Start 046Acrylic multi-purposeUSE FOR:• Laminate• Melamine• Thermofoil (intact)• Glossy oil-based finishes• Previously lacquered cabinets• Slick non-porous surfacesUSE FOR:• Red oak / white oak (tannin)• Mahogany / cherry• Water-stained wood• Smoke/nicotine damage• Knotty pine knot bleed• Any tannin-prone speciesUSE FOR:• Bare maple, poplar, birch• Raw or sanded MDF• Previously latex-painted cabs• Drywall behind open shelving• Lightly stained but no tannin• Low-VOC sensitive householdsWrong primer=peel failure within 12 months.Latex bonding primer on laminate peels in weeks. Latex over oak yellows in months.STIX over fresh tannin lets bleed through. Match substrate to chemistry, not by habit.Source: INSL-X STIX TDS, Zinsser BIN TDS, BM Fresh Start product page, retrieved 2026-05-26

INSL-X STIX, for laminate and thermofoil

STIX is a urethane-acrylic bonding primer built for the worst-bonding substrates in residential work: laminate, melamine, thermofoil, vinyl, glossy oil trim, even ceramic tile. Per the manufacturer TDS, it bonds without sanding to glossy non-porous surfaces and takes any topcoat (INSL-X STIX product specification, retrieved 2026-05-26). For Toronto condos built after 2000, where most kitchens are thermofoil or laminate, STIX is the right answer. In 12 years of using it I haven't had one fail.

Zinsser BIN, for tannin and stains

BIN is a shellac-based primer and the only thing I'll put over red oak, white oak, mahogany, cherry, or any cabinet carrying water, smoke or nicotine damage. Shellac is non-water-soluble, so it permanently seals tannins and stains that would bleed through a latex primer (Zinsser BIN technical data, retrieved 2026-05-26). On Toronto's huge stock of 1960s-1980s honey-oak kitchens, BIN is non-negotiable. Skip it and tannins ghost yellow through white cabinet paint inside 60 days.

The trade-off: BIN smells aggressive (denatured alcohol carrier), dries in 45 minutes, and needs real ventilation. We mask the kitchen, open a window, run a fan. Standard BIN is a high-solvent product, so this matters more than "crack a window." Health Canada's own guidance for renovation work is to schedule the VOC-heavy steps (primers, solvent finishes) so sensitive occupants, young kids, and anyone pregnant are out of the home while it happens, and to treat ventilation as the backup, not the whole plan (Health Canada). If having the house empty for the primer day isn't possible, there are lower-odour ways to block tannin: Zinsser makes a synthetic-shellac BIN Advanced and a water-based odour-killing primer that cut the solvent load, though I still reach for classic BIN on the worst honey-oak bleed because nothing seals it as reliably.

BM Fresh Start, for bare wood and MDF

Fresh Start 046 is an acrylic multi-purpose primer. It does its best work on bare maple, poplar, birch, raw MDF and cabinets that were previously latex-painted, where all you need is a uniform base for the topcoat (BM Fresh Start product page, retrieved 2026-05-26). Lower VOC than BIN, sands beautifully, takes BM Advance perfectly. Where Fresh Start fails is on glossy substrates (use STIX) and on tannin-prone wood (use BIN). One primer can't do all three jobs.

Cabinet primer selection is substrate-driven: INSL-X STIX for laminate, melamine, thermofoil, and any non-porous glossy surface; Zinsser BIN for red oak, stained wood, water or smoke damage, and any tannin-prone species; BM Fresh Start 046 for bare maple, raw MDF, and previously latex-painted cabinets. Using the wrong primer causes peel or bleed failure within 12 months on any cabinet job (Chad Caglak, HomePaintersPro Toronto, 2026).

What cabinet paint do Toronto pros actually use? (Why BM Advance is the call)

Benjamin Moore Advance is the default cabinet topcoat on roughly 80% of the pro jobs I see in Toronto. It's an alkyd hybrid, so it carries the leveling and durability of traditional oil paint with the cleanup and low-VOC profile of latex. Per BM's current spec sheet, Advance has a 16-hour dry-to-recoat window, cures to a hard enamel film suitable for trim and cabinetry, and self-levels brush and roller marks better than any 100% acrylic in the catalogue (Benjamin Moore Advance product page, retrieved 2026-05-26). It's the same enamel we spec on trim and doors, see trim, baseboard and door painting cost in Toronto.

At roughly $100 to $125 CAD per gallon at Toronto dealers in 2026 (an approximate range worth confirming with your local BM dealer), Advance sits between Regal Select and Aura on price. It's not the most expensive paint we buy, but it is the most expensive paint we touch on a cabinet job because the whole job only uses 2-3 gallons. Paint bill on a typical 10x10 kitchen is $200-$350. Everything else is labour, primer and consumables.

Worth saying: I'll also reach for Cabot's Premium Solid Color (a real alkyd cabinet enamel) on some jobs, mostly when a homeowner wants a glassier hand-applied finish. It levels even better than Advance under a brush but cures slower and smells stronger. Comparing the two on a Bloor West Village job last year, white uppers in Cabot's, white lowers in Advance, after a year both looked identical for hardness. The Advance was cheaper, lower VOC and easier to clean during the job. That's why it stays the default.

If you want maximum durability and you're already committed to off-site door spraying, the step-up option is a catalyzed coating: pigmented conversion varnish or a two-part (2K) polyurethane. These cure harder than any waterborne alkyd and are what high-end cabinet shops spray, but the trade-offs are real. They have to be catalyzed and sprayed in a controlled shop with serious ventilation, they're not a brushable on-site product, and touch-ups down the road are much harder to blend than they are with Advance. For most Toronto kitchens Advance is the right call; conversion varnish earns its premium only for households chasing a factory-cabinet finish who accept the reduced touch-up flexibility.

Why I don't spec straight latex on cabinets: I've tried every premium acrylic in the BM catalogue on cabinet doors, including Aura as an experiment. Aura is a wall paint. It dries soft, takes weeks to cure, and a fingernail marks it for the first month. Advance dries to a hard, glass-like film you can scrub with a Magic Eraser after 30 days. For cabinets, that hardness is the entire point.

That 30-day number is the one homeowners most need to hear, because dry is not cured. Advance is dry to the touch in a few hours and we can recoat it the next day, but it keeps hardening for weeks and only reaches full washable hardness at around 30 days (Benjamin Moore). So when the doors go back on, treat them gently for the first week: close them softly, don't stack heavy items against them, hold off on scrubbing. Toronto's humid summers and cold, damp garages both stretch that cure out further, which is one more reason we don't rush reinstall to hit a deadline. Rushing a cabinet back into hard daily use at day three is how a good finish picks up its first permanent marks.

When deep colours push you to Aura instead

There's one cabinet scenario where I'll switch from Advance to Aura: deep, saturated cabinet colours where Aura's Color Lock pigment-binding system actually earns its money. Color Lock holds vibrant colourants tighter than Advance, which matters on navy, forest green, charcoal and rich burgundy cabinets that have to keep their depth without fading or chalking. The trade-off is the softer cure, so we add a week of careful handling before reinstall. For whites, off-whites and pales? Skip Aura. There's no colour to lock and Advance is harder for $20-30 less per gallon.

Deep base upcharge applies here too

Saturated cabinet colours come out of a deep base. That deep base costs about $5-7 CAD more per gallon at every Toronto BM dealer, across every line in the catalogue. A kitchen uses 2-3 gallons of topcoat, so a deep navy or forest green cabinet job adds $15-25 to the paint bill before HST. Three-coat dark jobs add another $10 in primer. We disclose this on the quote, not on the final invoice.

full BM line comparison

Why two coats minimum, three coats common

BM Advance lists "1 or 2 coats" on the spec sheet, the same hedge BM puts on every topcoat. On real cabinets, plan two coats minimum, three coats common. Pure whites take a third coat to hide primer streaks and even out sheen under kitchen lighting. Deep saturated colours take a third because pigment load is heavier and first-coat coverage is uneven. Two-coat estimates that actually hold are mid-tone colours over similar-tone substrates: greige, soft sage, muted blue.

Is spraying really worth 20-30% more, or should you brush?

Spraying gets you a factory-grade finish that brushing physically cannot match on cabinet doors. Spray lays down an even film across the whole panel. A brush cannot, because the film thickness changes with every stroke, load, and overlap. That variation is what reads as brush marks under raking kitchen light. On a cabinet door viewed at 18 inches under recessed LED, every stroke catches. For cabinet-scale work the tool that matters is an HVLP (high-volume, low-pressure) sprayer, which atomizes the enamel finely with minimal overspray for that factory-smooth face; the airless rigs you see on big wall-and-ceiling jobs move faster over large areas but aren't the first choice for the fine finish a door needs. If a quote is vague on how the doors get sprayed, ask.

The cost math: spraying adds 20-30% to labour because of the workshop space, masking, ventilation, equipment and cleanup. On a $3,500 kitchen, that's another $700-1,000. What you get back:

  • Factory-smooth finish, no brush marks, no roller stipple
  • Even film build across every door and drawer front
  • 10-15 year lifespan against 3-5 years on a brushed cabinet job
  • Sheen uniformity brush work can't produce

Cabinet boxes mounted against the wall? Brush and roller is usually fine. Vertical surfaces don't catch light the same way. The doors and drawer fronts are what need spraying. The hybrid spec, spray the removable pieces, brush the boxes, is what 90% of Toronto pro cabinet jobs actually deliver.

spray painting service

How brushed cabinets fail: Brushed doors look fine at handover. The trouble shows up at month 18-24. As the film wears at high-touch zones (around handles, door edges, top rails), every brush stroke becomes visible because film thickness varies stroke to stroke. Sprayed cabinets wear evenly across the panel because film thickness is uniform. That's why a brushed cabinet job always looks worse at year five than at handover, while a sprayed job looks essentially identical.

Painting vs replacing cabinets: what's the actual Toronto math?

Cabinet painting saves 70-85% against replacement across every kitchen size. Faster timelines, no plumbing or electrical disruption, no countertop refit (Remodeling Magazine Cost vs. Value, 2024). Kitchens are also where updates land best with the people who live in them: the NAR and NARI 2025 Remodeling Impact Report gives kitchen upgrades a perfect 10 out of 10 Joy Score (NAR/NARI, 2025). That figure covers a full minor kitchen remodel, not cabinet painting alone, so read it as evidence the room rewards attention, not as a cabinet-painting ROI number. The decision isn't really about cost. It's about whether your boxes still work.

FactorPaintingReplacing
Cost, medium kitchen$2,500-$4,500 CAD + HST$26,000-$45,000 CAD + HST
Timeline5-10 business days6-12 weeks
Kitchen downtime1-2 days without doors3-6 weeks without kitchen
Countertop impactNoneUsually requires new ($3,000-$8,000)
Plumbing/electricalNoneTypically required
Lifespan10-15 years20-25 years
Resale ROI150-300%50-75%

Paint if your boxes are structurally sound, the layout works for your life, and the hinges and drawers still function. Replace if boxes are warped, water-damaged, the configuration fights how you cook, or you're rebuilding the whole kitchen anyway. For most of the Toronto homeowners I see, the boxes are fine. They just look tired.

How much do hardware, crown moulding, and two-tone islands really add?

Hardware, crown moulding and a two-tone accent island are the three add-ons that come up most often, and each lands separately from the base quote. Budget them up front or they'll catch you at the final invoice. A medium-kitchen package with all three adds roughly $1,200-$2,500 CAD on top of the base painting number.

New cabinet hardware

New pulls and knobs change how painted cabinets read more than any other upgrade. A 20-25 door kitchen usually wants 25-35 pieces of hardware.

  • Basic knobs: $3-$8 each, $75-$280 for the kitchen
  • Standard pulls: $8-$15 each, $200-$525
  • Premium brass or custom: $15-$40+ each, $375-$1,400+

Crown moulding

Adding crown during a cabinet repaint runs $300-$600 in material plus install. Custom-fit to the cabinet configuration, primed, sprayed in the same colour as the uppers. Crown adds visual height and makes the painted cabinets read as a proper renovation.

Two-tone island or lower cabinets

Two-tone kitchens (white uppers, deep colour on the lowers or island) need separate spray sequences, more masking, and a deep-base second colour. Budget $800-$1,500 for an island-only colour change, $1,200-$2,000 for a full lower-cabinet colour change.

Real Toronto cabinet projects: what they actually cost

Project 1: Leslieville condo galley

A small Toronto condo galley like this one runs about $3,200 CAD plus HST. Thermofoil cabinets, 12 doors and 6 drawer fronts, one panel with minor bubbling we re-adhered. STIX bonding primer, BM Advance Satin in Chantilly Lace. Doors sprayed in the workshop, boxes brushed on-site. Total: $3,200 CAD + HST. Six days. Listing agent credited the refresh when the unit sold two months later.

Project 2: North York 10x10 with island

A medium 10x10 kitchen with an island like this runs about $5,800 CAD plus HST. Solid wood honey-oak, 22 doors and 10 drawer fronts plus a 4-piece island. Zinsser BIN for the tannin block (mandatory on oak), BM Advance Satin in Simply White on the uppers, Aura Satin in Hale Navy on the island. New brushed-nickel hardware, crown moulding added. Total: $5,800 CAD + HST. Eight days.

Project 3: Rosedale large MDF

A large MDF kitchen like this runs about $7,200 CAD plus HST. Premium MDF cabinets in excellent condition, 26 doors and 12 drawer fronts. BM Fresh Start primer (raw MDF doesn't need STIX or BIN), BM Advance Semi-Gloss in Revere Pewter. Interior shelves painted, crown moulding, premium brass hardware. Total: $7,200 CAD + HST. Ten days.

Get a Toronto cabinet painting quote

Twenty years of cabinet work across the GTA. CityPlace condo galleys, family kitchens in North York, custom builds in Rosedale, rental turnovers in Liberty Village. Every job: correct primer for the substrate, BM Advance topcoat by default, doors sprayed in a controlled workshop, boxes brushed on-site, 5-year written warranty on workmanship.

Get your free cabinet painting quote or call (416) 875-8706. Quotes inside 24 hours. Fixed CAD pricing with HST disclosed. No surprises at invoice time.

Our home painters in Toronto do cabinet painting as a standalone job or rolled into a full kitchen painting project (walls, ceilings, trim, cabinets in one scope). For broader interiors, see the interior painting Toronto page.

About the author

Chad Caglak is co-owner of Home Painters Pro Toronto and a 20-year working painter. He's sprayed cabinets in everything from CityPlace condo galleys to honey-oak kitchens in North York and custom MDF builds in Rosedale, and writes the craft-and-pricing content here so Toronto homeowners can get a finish that lasts ten years instead of peeling in ten months. Read more in the cabinet paint comparison or the interior painting cost guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to paint kitchen cabinets in Toronto?
Toronto kitchen cabinet painting runs $1,800 to $8,000+ CAD plus HST. A small condo galley with 10-15 doors is $1,800-$2,800. A typical 10x10 kitchen with 16-22 doors is $2,500-$4,500. A large kitchen with island and 26+ doors runs $4,500-$8,000+. Pricing includes degreasing, sanding, bonding primer (INSL-X STIX or Zinsser BIN), two to three coats of cabinet-grade paint like BM Advance, and reinstallation. All prices are CAD before HST.
How long do professionally painted cabinets actually last in Toronto?
Sprayed cabinets with proper bonding primer and a cabinet-grade alkyd hybrid like BM Advance last 10-15 years in normal residential use. Brush-and-roller jobs with wall paint fail in 2-4 years. The lifespan gap is almost entirely about prep (degreasing, sanding, correct primer) and the paint chemistry. Cleaning habits matter too. Wipe spills the same day, avoid abrasive cleaners, and the finish holds. Heavy daily cooking with no range hood cuts lifespan in half on any cabinet job.
Is spraying worth the extra cost, or should I just brush?
Spray for any finish you will look at daily under kitchen lighting. Spraying adds 20-30% to labour but the finish is factory-smooth, with no brush marks or roller stipple. Brush and roller can produce a quality job on cabinet boxes (vertical surfaces against a wall) but visible doors and drawer fronts read every stroke under raking light. A sprayed BM Advance job lasts 10+ years and looks like new cabinetry. A brushed job in the same paint looks fine for 3-5 years, then telegraphs every stroke as the film wears.
Is it cheaper to paint or replace kitchen cabinets?
Painting runs a fraction of replacement, often a quarter to a third of the cost, as long as the boxes and doors are structurally sound. If the cabinets are falling apart or you want a new layout, replacement wins. If the bones are good, paint is the value play.
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